Category: Bread

Making Matzoh

That, I don’t mind sayin’, is some handsome matzoh. I was stunned at how much it tastes like store-bought when I tried it, but it does. Still, there’s always a qualitative difference between what you buy and what you make, and it shows here. This may not be kosher, but it’s very light and fresh-tasting in the way that anything out of a box isn’t.

And if you’re wondering why a Scots-Irish Catholic buys matzoh in the grocery store, let’s just say that after spending a fair amount of time in New York City, I found that civilized life was next to impossible without matzoh ball soup. Start by preheating your oven to 500 or even 550 if it will go that high. Next get your ingredients together. Combine the water and the flour in a medium bowl.

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Matzoh Recipe

If I’ve learned anything this week it’s that “simple” flatbreads aren’t actually simple. I shouldn’t be surprised at that, since I’m constantly repeating the maxim that the most elementary recipes are the hardest to pull off well. As the number of ingredients in a recipe decreases, the importance of ingredient quality and technique increases. Further, many flatbreads are tied deeply to cultural norms I know little or nothing about. Clearly I have a long way to go if I really want to master this week’s subject matter.

Still, since I’m already tramping clumsily through the garden of tradition, I think I’ll take reader Elizabeth up on her challenge of making some matzoh. The proportions of matzoh are easy to remember: 2-1 flour to water by volume. Add salt if you wish. For me that will translate into two cups of flour and one cup of water.

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Making Chapati

Some little old Indian ladies would have had a lot of fun watching me today, bobbling chapati while smoke poured out my kitchen windows. But I had fun! And I made some very good chapati. Not world class to be sure, but delicious. These tender breads are really fun to make and considering how fast they come together, they’re small miracles of economy: 45 minutes from start to finish! Start by assembling your ingredients.

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Chapati Recipe

Even easier than naan, chapati — also know as roti or fulka — is another go-to South Asian flatbread type. It’s enjoyed in India, Pakistan and many places beyond. The main difference between chapati and naan is that chapati are unleavened, so they’re even quicker to make. They also call for whole wheat flour, which gives them a nuttier taste.

11.5 ounces(2 cups) atta (Indian whole wheat flour, OR
5.5 ounces [1 cup] whole wheat flour plus 5 ounces [1 cup] all-purpose flour)
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 ounces (1/2 cup) water
4 ounces (1/2 cup) whole milk (or yogurt-milk combo)

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Making Naan

You know what I really love about flatbreads? They’re great low-investment laboratories for testing out dough formulations. A little more water here, a little more fat there, and suddenly you’re creating your dream…naan in this case. But the fun doesn’t stop with the formulae. You can bake flatbreads all sorts of ways: in the oven, on the stove, on the grill…you name it. So don’t take what I’ve done here as the definitive naan method. Try your own. I’ve just done what I happen to like. Use this tutorial as a starting point for further improvisations. Start by assembling your ingredients.

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Naan Recipe

Naan present some of the same challenges pizzas do: how to cook both the top and bottom to charred deliciousness in a home oven? It’s a bit of a dilemma given that both types of flat bread are traditionally baked in extremely hot wood or coal ovens (a tandoor in the case of naan, a wood oven in the case of pizza). This technique, that combines a hot oven with the broiler, is my preferred solution. Alternately you can grill naan or fry them in a cast iron skillet, both popular techniques. You’ll need:

11 ounces (2 cups plus two tablespoons) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon instant yeast
a generous pinch of baking powder
1-2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 ounces (1/2 cup) milk (room temperature)
4 ounces (1/2 cup) yogurt (room temperature)
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) olive oil
More oil and coarse salt for a topping

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Making Baozi

Two leaveners give baozi a cloud-like fluff that’s a perfect compliment to a sweet barbecue (or bean paste, or custard) interior. Sampling one straight from the steamer you could almost convince yourself that you’re eating some form of savory cotton candy. Such is the magic of steam baking. What you lose in color and crisp you gain in other-worldy lightness.

I confess that boazi intimidated me a little at first, I was worried about the shaping step. But a decent top crimp is well within the grasp of the average baker. And heck, if it fails you can just pinch it closed and steam the buns upside down instead. No shame there. They taste just as good. Start by preparing the filling of your choice and assembling your ingredients. Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl (or the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle). Stir them together.

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Baozi Barbecue Pork Filling

Reader Sally supplied me with the basis of this recipe, which I ultimately decided to change in favor of a sweeter hoisin sauce barbecue style. Thanks, Sally!

3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
12 ounces pork, in strips
2 teaspoons flour
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 ounces (1/4 cup) water
2 tablespoons lard or peanut oil
2 scallions, chopped fine
2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

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Baozi Recipe

This formula is somewhat different from the traditional baozi dough recipes I’ve seen. It uses a machine for one, because I’m lazy. Next, it employs instant yeast instead of regular active dry, which eliminates a step. It also incorporates the baking powder early. The reason, because modern baking powders can sit in a wet medium and still react when heated hours or even days later. Though it’s not strictly traditional, it works splendidly.

1 lb. (3 cups) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
8 ounces (1 cup) water
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) canola or peanut oil

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Making Yorkshire Pudding

Now a true Yorkshire pudding (or so I have it on good authority) is made in one large pan, not in several small ones, and it’s served not as an accompaniment to a roast but as a first course, drizzled with gravy. Works for me. Still, once these shots were done I piled on some sliced turkey, a little cranberry and another piece o’ puddin’ and made a sandwich out of it. I can tell you that it made one heck of a Kentucky lunch! So do what you will. I know of no Yorkshireman (or woman) who’ll come ’round to check.

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