Shortbread Recipe

The classic proportions for shortbread are 1, 2, 3: one part sugar, two parts butter and three parts flour. These days shortbread recipes are both sweeter and richer than that. Surprised? The below recipe, inspired by Cook’s Illustrated, boosts the sugar content by about 50% and the butter by about 25%, which is OK by […]

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Short Subject: Shortbread

For the next couple of days we’ll be talking shortbread. It’s a project that’s been on my to-do list for quite a while, though I moved it up after an urgent request for a tutorial came in last week. Shortbread is another very simple preparation, one that’s mostly taken for granted now. These days come […]

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Welcome Back!

I hope everyone who celebrated Labor Day in the States had a good 3-day weekend. I know, most of you folks who work in the food industry are saying what 3-day weekend? I was just offering up my excuse for not having posted yesterday. On which note, I want to offer up a word of […]

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425????

Degrees? Fahrenheit? Yes, you read right, friends. This custard is baked at an insanely hot 425. That’s almost unheard of for a custard, hence all the folks who emailed me last night to make sure I wasn’t drunk. Why are custards usually baked low? Of course to keep the egg proteins from clenching up and […]

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Who was Gaston Lenôtre?

In France and in most food industry circles, the name Lenôtre is legendary. It stands for a man — an exacting and genial fellow who was both respected and loved — but also for a global empire of schools, pastry shops, restaurants and catering facilities. I think of him as the first truly modern master […]

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What, No More Pollan Tirades?

Such is the subject line of an email I received from reader Alek, who wonders why I have yet to write a critical review of Michael Pollan’s latest book, Food Rules. It’s the latest in a long series of emails I’ve received since the book came out in January. I’ll admit I’ve been tempted at […]

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When Doughnuts Meet Custard

Reader Katy asks: Have you ever made Krispy Kreme Bread Pudding? It’s just a big stinkin’ pile of Krispy Kremes with yummy cream sauce over it. Uh….yum. Never made it, never eaten it, but if some were put in front of me I wouldn’t say no (I like Krispy Kremes). I’ll also confess to you […]

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On Scalding Milk for Still Custards

Chef Laura writes: I have never really understood the whole scald-the-milk-for-a-still-custard thing. I understand the neccessity for creme anglaise and pastry cream, but I don’t get the importance for baked custards. I scanned previous posts and didn’t see an answer to this. I have nothing in my notes from school. I have made bread pudding […]

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