What makes filo flaky?

In a word, reader Jan: steam. Expanding steam is the force that pushes apart those delicate sheets, which then crisp up in the heat of the oven. But of course to make steam you need water, so the logical question then becomes: where does the water come from? In part from the dough itself, but also from the butter.

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Not Your Typical Custard

So this filling…it’s pretty much just like a pastry cream, then? Um, let’s say it’s in the same family, reader Hal. Like pastry cream it’s a stirred custard, not a still custard, even though it’s also baked. The process for making it is identical, however under the hood it’s both leaner and employs a more interesting combination of starches.

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Galaktoboureko Recipe

Reader Lisa, a pastry student in Greece, was kind enough to forward this recipe along to me. I’ve made a few modifications to make it easier for home cooks here in the English-speaking world, I trust that won’t offend. Here’s what you’ll need:

For the Syrup

1 1/2 recipes of heavy syrup, simmered with a fat strip of lemon zest, cooled, then 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract added. Make this the night before.

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Filo Recipe

The only special gear you need for filo — other than a large table or counter to roll on — is a thick dowel rod or a broom handle to use as a rolling pin. What, you’ve never rolled dough with a broom handle before? Well there’s never been a better time to learn!

1 lb. 4 ounces (4 cups) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
11 ounces (1 1/3 cups) warm water
2 ounces (1/4) cup olive oil
cornstarch (corn flour) for rolling

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What is Galaktoboureko?

“Delicious” is the answer. It’s basically a custard pie — the name means “milk pie” — baked in a deep dish, surrounded by filo and soaked with a citrus-scented syrup. Hang on, Joe, that sounds vaguely familiar. Indeed it does, especially if you’re a baklava fan.

But I thought baklava was Middle Eastern or Turkish in origin, isn’t this Greek? Yes and yes, however galaktoboureko represents a melding of those traditions. Greeks have long been makers of pies and custards. It seems that something not entirely dissimilar to a quiche existed in Greece in antiquity.

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Next Up: Galaktoboureko

Gesundheit. This is a Greek classic that’s not very well known here in the States. However I’ve got it on good authority that it’s a must for every Greek home baker’s repertoire. It’s a fairly simple device, however as a bonus I think I’ll attempt homemade filo, too. Should be good for a little entertainment, no? At least it will when I get back, as I have to travel the next couple of days. More Friday I hope!

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Gear Essentials: Building/Finishing

One thing I’m not is a talented decorator/finisher. However I know enough about finishing to know that you can achieve some remarkable things with a little gumption and a handful of tools. Here’s what my finishing arsenal looks like, all this photo is missing is my blowtorch, the pieces of which I hid so well from my kids that now I can’t find them. Oh well, life must go on.

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