Why do egg white foams cause dryness?

That’s a great question, reader Bobbi, for in fact they often do cause dryness when they’re incorporated into something baked: a cake, cookie or scone. I can think of a couple of reasons why that would be. As you may recall from past discussions of egg white foams, the act of whipping causes proteins in the mostly-water egg white to denature (“get wrecked” in science-speak). In their natural state these proteins — lots of globulin and ovotransferrin — are found gently curled in bunches. The force of whipping pulls those bunches apart, and once they’re apart the individual protein molecules start collecting on the surface of the air bubbles that have been created by all the agitation. They do that because those proteins have both water-loving parts and water-hating parts along their length. The surface of an air bubble is therefore a perfect place for them. The water-loving parts can stay in the water, the water-hating parts can protrude into the air, both sides of their split personality are happy. They’ll also bond side-to-side with each other just for good measure. The result is a protein mesh that reduces the bubble’s surface tension, reinforces its walls and keep the bubble from popping. In other words: foam.

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On a Related Note…

Yet more evidence — in this case a meta-study — disproving the link between dietary fats, especially saturated fats, and heart disease. The study found no increases in heart disease among people who consumed more saturated fat. More interesting still, the study found no decreases in heart among people who consumed more unsaturated fats. Very interesting indeed, and a bolster to those who believe that heart disease is more a factor of our genes than our diets.

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America’s Baker-in-Chief to Resign

Pastry Chefs, fire up those resumés. Bill Yosses, White House Pastry Chef since 2007, is moving on, citing a desire to relocate to New York to teach children and adults about the relationship between food and health. Just how and where he’ll do that is something of a mystery as of right now, but I’m sure there’ll be no end of opportunities in the Big Apple for the America’s former First Baker.

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White Layer Cake Recipe

White cake lovers treasure the image of grandma gently folding a mound of whipped egg whites into a rich, buttery batter. Unfortunately it’s whipped whites that are the cause of what a lot of people don’t like in white cake: dryness. Or, if those egg white bubbles pop en masse, density. Plus dryness. Which is really no good for anybody. Nope, when it comes to white cake the “two-stage” or “one bowl” method is really the only way to go. You’ll need:

10 ounces (scant 2 1/4 cups) cake flour
10.5 ounces (1 1/2 cups) granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
6 ounces (12 tablespoons) soft butter
5 egg whites
8 ounces (1 cup) milk, room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract (or for fun, 1 tsp. vanilla and 1 tsp. almond)

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10 Proven Ways to Get His Attention — NOW!

Just kidding. I got a promotional email this morning telling me that if I didn’t learn to write headlines that resemble Cosmopolitan magazine I’ll go nowhere as a blogger. So consider this a warm-up as I steadily work the Cosmo aesthetic into my day-to-day routine. Here’s a list of posts I’m currently working on:

Folding Techniques That Will Absolutely Blow His Mind!
Making the Génoise He Secretly Wants But is Too Shy to Ask For
Five Things Other Bakers Say About You Behind Your Back

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So what now?

I’m back tan, rested and ready, but with few ideas for projects, so I thought I’d solicit some suggestions from you, my faithful readership. So hit me! I’ll do my best to get to everything before Q3 of 2019.

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Lidded Cake Pans?

Reader Evan asks: if we use lidded Pullman pans to create perfectly rectangular loaves of bread, why don’t we use lidded cake layer pans to make cake layers that don’t dome? That is an ingenious question, Evan! You may have a big future as a product designer. However in this case my guess is that you’d find a lid did you more harm than good. Why? Because the centers of rising cake layers are much more delicate than the tops of rising bread loaves. If you’ve ever tapped the top of a cake layer before it’s completely done you’ve probably noticed that the indentations you make with your fingers don’t spring back even after the layer is

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Replacing Granulated Sugar with Maple Sugar (or Syrup)

Reader Lee-Ann writes:

Tis Maple season up here in Canada and I have found a good source for Maple sugar, which I have heard is better for you. I love baking and have tried a couple recipes switching out the brown or white sugar for Maple sugar. What is your view on baking with Maple sugar and is it a one to one ratio with white sugar?

Hey Lee-Ann! I’m not sure about maple being better for you, however I can totally understand wanting to make the substitution from a flavor and convenience standpoint. When you say “sugar” I presume you mean “syrup” (we in the Midwestern U.S. often conflate those two words where maple is concerned). I know there is such a thing as granulated maple sugar

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Ode to a Trout

Can I jump in at this point from Florida to say that of all the God’s swimming creatures, trout are the fish I love the most? You can catch them in mountain streams, lakes, rivers and in the ocean. Everywhere you find them they’re delicious. We caught a couple speckled gulf trout just before lunch […]

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And with that…

I’m outta here for close to a week. I’m blowing this cyber popsicle stand and heading to the South Florida coast for several days of fishing and gratuitous fried shrimp consumption. I’ll bring you back some shells!

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