Joe’s Clotted Cream Adventure Begins

Most days I’m one of those cynics who thinks the local foods movement is overdone. Oversold, over-hyped, overwrought…over pretty much everything. But today is not one of those days. Why? Because this morning I opened up a glass bottle of locally-produced cream and found this:

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Rising, Fast and Slow

Reader Anna wrote in late last week to ask why big heat (i.e. around 500 degrees Fahrenheit) helps shortbread-type cakes like scones and American biscuits rise higher. Anna, you’ve made me a very happy blogger this Monday morning. Leavening is a fascinating, fascinating subject.

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Whence the Scone?

That’s an awfully difficult question to answer. There’s no question that scones are descendants of Scottish oat and/or barley cakes. The word is actually Scottish in origin. “Skons” is how they pronounce them up that way. “Skoans” is the pronunciation I mostly heard down in Devon and Cornwall.

The barley cakes of old weren’t polite little circular scones like they have all over Britain today. A couple of hundred years ago they were made in one large, flat round which was placed on a hot griddle and flipped, sort of like a huge pancake. The finished cake was then cut into big wedges which were then buttered and eaten hot.

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Battle of the Cream Teas

The residents of Devon and Cornwall don’t agree on much generally, but least of all where food is concerned. A couple of years ago I discussed the ongoing row between those two English counties on the crucial question of pasty crimping: side or top? With issues of that magnitude on the table it’s no wonder there’s so little intermarriage across county lines down that way.

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Lingua Franca

Something else that’s interesting about Picardy is that they have their own language: Picard. Some consider it a distinct language, others just a dialect of French. But so I’m told, speakers of Picard and French can’t necessarily understand one another.

In our modern education environment where we take French, German and Spanish classes, it’s easy to forget that Europe — despite its best efforts to integrate itself into an economic, even cultural whole — remains a patchwork of cultures and languages, many that the average person has never heard of. The big, internationally accepted tongues are merely language of convenience which (supposedly) tie everyone together.

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Making Stabilized Whipped Cream

Sure, there are plenty of purists out there who don’t believe cream should be polluted with stabilizers. I’m with them…some of the time. The rest of the time I’m worried about my whipped cream holding up for long periods, on warm days or in the freezer. Then I’m looking for a little somethin’-somethin’ to help get me by.

That something is gelatin. Just a little will do wonders you whipped cream’s stability, and honestly, it barely impacts the taste or texture. Start by melting a little gelatin. For 2 cups of cream you’ll start with a 1/2 teaspoon of powdered gelatin and a little ice water. Yes, these are my little silicone Trudeau bowls again. I love them, that’s why I plug them. They’re wonderful:

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You Won’t Believe This

The Pastry clan went to a big Epiphany party Saturday night, the official observance of the feast day at one of the two parishes we participate in (one’s a bit closer to our home, the other to our hearts). Since the church has a sizable hispanic population, I fully expected to find some king cakes there, and sure enough I wasn’t disappointed. There were several, both a rosca de reyes

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Ginger Scone Recipe

This is probably my favorite scone recipe. The ginger adds what I think is the perfect zing and textural contrast. 3/4 cup heavy cream, plus extra for the tops 12 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour 2.5 ounces sugar pinch salt 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest 6 ounces unsalted butter, cut into […]

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A scone by any other name…will still bust the diet you’re on.

So what are the “national styles” of scones?. For the Brits (and I’m generalizing greatly) a scone is not unlike what we Americans call a biscuit: a fairly small and round baked item, slightly moist, slightly sweet, rich and flaky. Like a biscuit they’re usually split before they’re eaten, often slathered with jam. The British […]

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Just what is a “scone” anyway?

If you’re a Scotsman, you pronounce “scone” as that which rhymes with “gone”, not “bone” as most of the rest of the English-speaking world does. Does that really matter? Well yes, because scones are Scottish breads. Originally they were made from either ground oats or barley (definitive Scottish grains), though very few people eat them […]

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