Lemon Bars Recipe

A great lemon bar should have a no-nonsense tart-sweet curd filling above and a flaky-yet-firm short bread crust below. The two together create an experience that approaches religious. The secret to lemon bars isn’t in the ingredients per se (a top-notch lemon curd filling is defined more by what you leave out of it than […]

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Prairie Meets the Post-War

Reader Lee comments on the A Word of Warning post below: I wonder if you aren’t conflating two separate trends — one, the prairie ethic of making do with what is at hand, the other, the post-War industrialized-processed food glut that, in many ways, was the opposite of the first. I admire the prairie baker […]

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What is butterscotch and why is it called “butterscotch”?

GREAT questions, reader Steve! Butterscotch is a candy that’s made by cooking sugar to the “hard crack” stage of 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The key point of difference between butterscotch and regular candy is that at least half of the sugar employed is brown sugar. Butterscotch has no actual “scotch” in it of course, instead its […]

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Is there such a thing as “unsweetened condensed milk”?

That from reader Chana. In fact there is, it’s simply called “evaporated milk” and it can usually be found in the same section of the grocery store. Evaporated milk was a later development than (sweetened) condensed milk for the simple reason that the manufacturing is more difficult. Without the bacteria-killing sugar in the mix, there […]

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A Word of Warning

I’ll wager that more than a few serious pastry bakers out there, including many of you on the Continent, are going to be seriously put off — dare I say even repulsed — by some of what goes on here this week. For many, bar cookies typify all that’s wrong with American sweet baking. Too […]

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This Week’s Project: Bar Cookies

Since it’s getting to be picnic weather, it seems like a great time to pull out this Great American (really North American) classic. As a rule I don’t get terribly excited about cookies. With a few notable exceptions, the standard round “drop” cookie leaves me rather cold. Bar cookies are an entirely different matter. They’re […]

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Northern Wheat, Confederate Corn

Now me, I don’t think you have to be a re-enactor to be fascinated by the American Civil War. I may not relish the thought of spooning with a bunch of unwashed men in a cold tent, but there are other ways to indulge an interest in history. Like, say, digging up answers to questions […]

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