Ice cream cones are essentially tuiles…thin, sugar-rich cookies that can be molded into different shapes when they’re hot. I say this a lot, but they’re simple to make and they taste great. Oh, and did I mention that they take about twenty minutes from start to finish? Start by preheating your oven to 350. Combine your egg whites, sugar and vanilla in a bowl.
READ ONI said I had a recipe, I didn’t say it was my own. This one is from the king of ice cream, pastry chef David Lebovitz. His book The Perfect Scoop became an instant classic when it was published four years ago. Aside from all the luscious, easy-to-prepare ice cream recipes, there are naturally several for vessels. This is one of them.
2 large egg whites
3 ounces (scant half cup) sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon salt
3.25 ounces (2/3 cup) flour
1 ounce (2 tablespoons melted butter)
There’s a great, if hotly disputed, legend about the ice cream cone. It dates back to the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis, the famous Louisiana Purchase Exposition. Several fair food classics are said to have been invented there, among them the hot dog, cotton candy, the hamburger and of course the ice cream cone. […]
READ ONI am, I’ll tell you. We here in the Midwest went from cold and stormy to hot and dry in the blink of an eye. Reader Ellen was right on the money when she asked if I had a recipe for a good homemade ice cream cone. In fact I do have one of those, […]
READ ONQuite a few questions have come in over the last week as to whether the mango mousse recipe will work with other fruits. The answer is yes, though you might have to adjust the sugar a bit according to the fruit and your taste. Follow the same procedure with 20 ounces (2 1/2 cups) of […]
READ ONReader Mel asks:
I’m thinking of making a maple version of the Charlotte Royale sometime in the next few weeks. I have a solid maple mousse recipe, but I’m at a loss as to what to sub for the apricot jam for the “Royale roulade.” Do you think a maple buttercream would be too rich? Maybe some sort of walnut butter? I’m racking my brain for something that would be light enough and still have color contrast to show off the spirals…any suggestions?
In fact I have several suggestions! My feeling is that you should stick with a jam of some sort since you won’t want a buttercream clouding your glaze. Also a jam is a nice counterpoint to a Bavarian cream. Apricot is a fine complement to maple, believe it or not, as are other fruit flavors. Orange marries nicely, but also raspberry and strawberry, which would give your roulade sections the more dramatic look you’re after. For something unconventional, a dark chocolate ganache would no doubt make an impression. But that’s just me. Other suggestions, anyone?
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Just like a Charlotte russe, a Charlotte royale can take a variety of forms. This domed version is probably the classic, though I’ve seen lots of flat ones made in rounds as well. They can be just about any flavor. Mango is a true delight. It starts with a sheet of joconde, half as thick as my regular recipe calls for. It should be only lightly browned so that it remains flexible enough to roll. About like so:
READ ONActually a Bavarian cream, mango mousse takes a bit of work, but the technical frills are worth the extra-silky and luxurious result. Start by peeling two large, ripe mangoes. Yes, I know this is a composite shot, but as you already know, I only have two hands.
…is today. It’s the day when we here in the U.S. remember those who have died, especially in war (indeed the observance of Memorial Day dates back to the close of the Civil War). It’s a day when many Americans decorate the graves of lost friends and family with flowers or flags. But regardless of whether or not we make it out to a cemetery, we all spend the day with family and loved ones…grilling. I’ll be doing that today instead of posting. See you tomorrow!
UPDATE: An excellent account of the origins of Memorial Day can be found here.
READ ONYesterday was a landmark day in the history of racing — and baking — as Belgian race car driver Bertrand Baguette came within an eyelash of winning the Indy 500. Baguette was leading with just three laps to go, but was forced to return to the pits for fuel. He ended up finishing 14th. Ah […]
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