Making Linzer Torte

Linzer torte…that’s pretty much just a jam tart, right? That’s what I thought going into this. Oh, how wrong I was. But I can see why there are so many short crust, tart-like Linzer tortes in the world. Not only are they easier to make, if you add a layer of some sort of almond cream/frangipane to them you can approximate the taste of the real thing. However you can’t duplicate the texture, which isn’t flaky but rather moist, rich and cake-like.

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Making Linzer Batter

I’ve become a convert from Linzer dough to Linzer batter because it produces a torte that is more like, well, a torte…not a tart. Tart crusts are hard and flaky. By comparison the crust you get from this batter is like a dense, nutty cake. Use this as a base for a Linzer torte, or pipe it into small rounds and use it for Linzer cookies. Either way you will not be disappointed.

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Linz’s Favorite Son

Or at least one of them, is Johannes Kepler. Like Linz’s least favorite son, Kepler wasn’t actually from there. Rather, he was born in Germany. Still he lived in Linz for quite some time, teaching mathematics and adding to his famous laws of planetary motion. Kepler did a lot in Linz, but the thing that captured my attention while I was reading about his exploits there this week was his participation in a debate about the adoption of the Gregorian Calendar.

Yeah sure Joe, sounds real interesting…click! Fine, but I’ve always found the topic fascinating — for what it says about the action of the solar system, but mostly for what it says about the all-too-common inaction of manmade political and religious organizations. For the Gregorian Calendar was officially instituted in 1582, but it took almost 500 years before it was finally, fully implemented around the world. And even today there are some holdouts.

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It’s all becoming clear to me now…

The main reason most Linzer tortes are made with short crust these days — or so I’ve come to believe — has to do with a certain technical issue. Reader Gerhard has convinced me that originally Linzer tortes were indeed cake-like and not tart-like, with red currant (or black currant) jam on the top.

But here’s the sticky detail: jam is gooey. It soaks into cake when you bake it on top of a liquid (or semi-liquid) batter. So how did the originators of the modern Linzer torte achieve a separation of the two? The answer: by applying paper-thin wafers to the batter and then spreading jam over them. Back-Oblaten they’re called…”baking wafers.” The jam goes on the wafer, the wafer provides a barrier and probably absorbs enough moisture from the jam during baking that you don’t know it’s there afterward.

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Linzer Batter

So…let’s try that again. Here’s a pipe-able Linzer batter. This is enough for one 11″ torte or many cookies. If you plan on making piped cookies with this, omit the cinnamon and cloves. I also recommend adding an extra ounce of flour for cookies, so the batter doesn’t run quite so much. So here we go:

9 ounces whole blanched almonds, peeled hazelnuts or a combination
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoons cloves
11 ounces cake flour
1 teaspoons lemon zest
10 ounces butter
8 ounces granulated sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
2 egg yolks, room temperature

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Just what is a “torte” anyway?

That’s an excellent question (thanks, Christine G.). The distinctions between cakes, layer cakes, tortes and gâteaux are rarely discussed. Most people simply assume they’re just different words people use to describe the same things, but that’s not really true. The distinctions between them can be fine but they’re real and worth noting. I’m not aware of any definitive resource on the subject, so all I can do is try to create my own. Pastry enthusiasts, chime in if you want to add or correct anything.

Cakes are single-layered sweetened and enriched “breads” for lack of a better word. Usually round and almost always flat, their primary ingredient is grain or grain flour (wheat, oat, barley or the like). Cakes can be sweetened with sugar, molasses or honey and enriched with eggs, solid fat or oil. They can be leavened naturally (yeast), mechanically (egg foam) or chemically (baking powder or soda).

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