“Overmixing” is a term that’s generally applied to batters versus doughs. It means that the mixture has been agitated to the point that the gluten in the flour has been developed. Most often it’s pancake batters and muffin batters (things made via the muffin method) that are said to be overmixed, though cookie and cake […]
READ ONYesterday I left off talking about the differences between cakes and muffins. But why talk when I can show? Let’s start with a small wedge of cake, cut cross-wise to reveal what’s under the hood: We have a few larger holes here, but notice how small and regular most of the rest of them are. […]
READ ONWhile I’m on the subject of requests, I’ve had six or eight of them over as many months for muffins. Since muffins are just about my all-time favorite breakfast food, I think it’s high time I blogged about them. The timing is good too, since blueberries are out here in Kentucky (or at least they […]
READ ONHELLACIOUS traffic the last two days, much of it from Stumbleupon.com. I’d love to know where/how I’ve been referenced, but every time I try to track the referrals back, all I get is an advertisement. Would any of you Stumbleuponers be so kind as to enlighten me as to what or whom I owe this […]
READ ONThis is a standard, easy, workingman’s ganache, great for baking applications. Ganache (pronounced ga-NAHsh) is most commonly a 50-50 combination of chocolate and heavy cream (by weight). Known as “soft” ganache, this is the kind that is typically used for toppings and drizzles, or whipped to make cake fillings. Heavier “firm” ganaches (say, 2-1 chocolate […]
READ ONLost of interesting stuff in the news lately, some of it even sane. On the one hand we have some point-counterpoint from the Los Angeles Times on the subject of local foods. Though it’s not really point-counterpoint since both authors claim to be big local foods supporters, one argues that locally-produced foods offer no concrete […]
READ ONAh, ze éclair…si simple, si marveilleuse. I feel like eating one right now. Oh, right, I just did. But with all my prepared shells, pastry cream and ganache on-hand, there’s plenty more where that came from, n’est-ce pas? So what am I waiting for? I start by filling a pastry bag with pastry cream and […]
READ ONWhen it comes to excellence in ice cream, there is no more discerning palate than the inimitable David Lebovitz. Clearly why MSNBC tapped him to take them on a tour of America’s premier ice cream makers (I was in line for the gig but unfortunately had a scheduling conflict). All I can say is thank […]
READ ONToday marks the 90th anniversary of the birth of legendary blues man Howlin’ Wolf, one of the great exponents (along with Muddy Waters, Little Walter and Sonny Boy Williamson) of the electrified Chicago blues sound. One of the most commercially and financially successful blues musicians of his day, Howlin’ Wolf was a giant of the […]
READ ONSo then, after mixing the choux is ready to go. Preheat your oven to 425 degrees. Spoon the choux into the pastry bag of your choice, fitting it was a collar but no tip (so as to maximize choux outflow). Pipe it into the shape of your choice. Here I’m making short, stubby éclairs, which […]
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