The arrival of these little cheese puffs at the top of the request list is a very auspicious sign for the new year. It means I finally might make good on a New Year’s resolution that I’ve made the last three years running: to do more savory baking. Something else that’s very cool about gougères is that they are the first things I ever tried to bake, way back in sixth grade when my twin sister and I put on a dinner party for our parents, aunt and uncle. I didn’t understand a thing about the process, only that the glossy picture on the cover of Bon Appétit looked amazing. The poor things didn’t rise one bit, but they sure tasted good. I haven’t attempted them since. It’s time.