Today’s New York Times food section includes a profile of Jeff Varasano, a former New Yorker whose obsession with reproducing real New York-style pizza has made him the number one authority on New York and/or Neapolitan pizza on the internet. If you’ve never been to his web site, it’s worth a trip. It’s got everything you need to know to convert your kitchen into a Manhattan-style pizza joint, provided you don’t mind disabling the safety features of your electric oven so it can be turned up to a thousand degrees. I demurred from that, preferring instead to build my own brick oven. I’m not sure which project, in the end, has proven more dangerous.