A reader points out that dacquoise isn’t always thin, sometimes it can be as thick as a cake layer. Very true, however there’s a limit to how much meringue I can stand in one bite. I’ve seen dacquoise and ganache pastries that look like hamburgers — with the dacquoise as the bun. Kind of a fun thing but the sensation is like drinking the head off a frothy mug of beer. Just a big mouthful of foam. Me, I don’t see the attraction.

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