A Sponge by Any Other Name…

The ladyfinger operates under a slew of aliases. It’s gone by the name of boudoir biscuit, long finger, Naples biscuit and trifle biscuit. In France it’s known as biscuit à la cuillère or “spooned” biscuit, supposedly because the batter was originally shaped by hand with a spoon. I have no idea whether or not that’s […]

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Variations on the Ladyfinger

As with most classic pastry preparations, ladyfinger recipes tend to be fairly consistent. This one might have an extra egg yolk, that one a little more vanilla, but overall they tend to be quite similar. The only major area of disagreement you’ll find between them is the type of flour they call for. Some demand […]

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Ladyfinger Recipe

This is a fairly standard ladyfinger recipe that produces a nice general-purpose cookie. It’s quite similar to other sponge cakes like génoise, except that it contains no butter. You can of course mess with this basic formula to create different effects, and in the next couple of posts I’ll tell you how. 4 eggs, room […]

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No Questions this Weekend

I used to be a beekeeper — an urban beekeeper — back in my old neighborhood in Chicago. The missus and I kept several hives on a rooftop on the Northwest Side and had the time of our lives doing it, except when we got stung a lot, obviously. But then the days of getting […]

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Caramelizing Onions

Onions are sweet little bulbs. In fact they’re unusually so, only their sweetness is hidden in the form of long chains of fructose molecules. Unadulterated, those fructose chains don’t register as sweet sensations on our tongues because our taste buds don’t have receptors capable of recognizing them. Add to that the fact that they’re disguised […]

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On tomato varieties…

Two inquiries from readers overnight, as to whether I suggest any particular type of heirloom tomato for this week’s project. I’m very glad for those questions, because they give me just the opportunity I wanted to re-post this 2009 feature from the Washington Post, which as far as I’m concerned should have been nominated for […]

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