Marshmallow Debrief

Not much to say here except measure everything out in advance and watch your temperatures. Don’t worry if your egg whites finish a little early, better they sit and get a little watery than your syrup cool to the point of setting. You can always whip the whites back up some before you start to […]

READ ON

Graham Cracker Debrief

A week late I’m getting around to debriefing my graham cracker project. Such is the nature of surprise business travel. Let’s just say it’s a good thing there aren’t any Grahamites around these days, or they’d be pouring caustic lime on Gale Gand. Sylvester would have had a heart attack had he seen these. Yes, […]

READ ON

Oh Robert, Robert…

Looks like Robert DeNiro, brilliant though notoriously reclusive actor, has decided to come out and lend his voice to New York’s anti-trans fat crusade. What a shame, though he does coincidentally happen to own two restaurants that advertise zero-trans fat menus, so I guess it’s good exposure. I hate to be a bore on this […]

READ ON

Short Week, Short Recipe

I came home to find a bag of fresh late-season figs sitting on the counter, and well, let’s just say homecomings don’t get much better than that. Figs, with their medium sweetness and juicy, slightly meaty texture can be eaten either savory or sweet, and are some of the pastry cook’s best friends. There’s precious […]

READ ON

Business Travel Blues

Hey kids, looks like I’m being sumnmoned back up to Chicago for a few days. Profuse apologies, I’ve not been a very consistent blogger the last month. I’ll be back in action on Thursday.

READ ON

The Elements of Folding

I said it before and I’ll say it again: flourless chocolate cake is all in the various techniques. Last night I realized that perhaps the most critical of all of them is the one I haven’t actually talked about yet: folding. The thing that’s most obvious about a flourless chocolate “cake” is that it’s not […]

READ ON

The Infection Spreads

No, not my shingles. That’s over. It’s food legislation again. No sooner does the Chicago city council start to recognize the ridiculousness attempting a city-wide trans fat ban than the New York city council decides to take up the issue. Again. Just goes to show that there’s no sphere of life that’s safe from cheap […]

READ ON

Parchment Pan Liners

I’ve made this point before, but I see no reason not to keep on making it. Always, always, always line your cake-baking vessels from stem to stern with parchment paper. I know you have a non-stick pan, I don’t care. It’ll stick. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but sooner or later you’re going to […]

READ ON

Flourless Chocolate Cake Debrief

I talked a lot about flourless cake technique two weeks ago when I put up the project, so most of this ground has been covered…save to say the choice of pans, which is important. My first time out buying a springform pan I went with a cheapie $9 special I found in the closeout bin […]

READ ON