thumb image

Xuixos

Gesundheit. All I can say is, if you’ve ever wondered why the cronut has created so much international hoopla, make yourself up a batch of these. You’ll get it in a hurry. And I should say you’ll also have the satisfaction of having made the original cronut, which dates back roughly 100 years to a small city in Catalonia. Why on Earth deep fried croissant dough has never gotten much attention outside of Spain these last ten decades I’ll never understand, because…wow. Add in the cinnamon- and citrus-scented crema Catalan, and you have a positive show-stopper.

The one thing I’ll say is that next time I do these — and it’ll be soon — I’ll roll the croissant dough thinner than I would for a traditional croissant (rolling the 24-ounce piece to 16″ x 16″ instead of 12″ x 16″ should do the trick). Why? Because main challenge with xuixos is ensuring that they get heated all the way through. Which is why, in additional to thinner dough, you’ll want to make sure you fry at a slightly lower-than-normal temperature, so the heat has a chance to penetrate. Dough that’s 1/8 inch maximum will also help ensure through-to-the-middle cooking. So then, let’s start.

As I mentioned in the recipe, these follow the same steps as a traditional croissant. There are a couple of little tricks at the end of the rolling process, however, that ensure that oil does’t rush into the dough roll as it fries. The first thing is the little “tail” here:

You want to pull it out a bit, then glue it down with some egg wash to keep the roll from unrolling. Put some wash on the underside of the tail, plus a little on top, like so:

Next then ends. Paint them with wash as well…

Then seal them by folding the pointy bit inward and picking firmly.

And you’ll have a nice little oil-proof package. Like so. Easy.

Now all you need to do is paint them with egg wash and let them proof about an hour and a half. They go from like this:

To like this:

Not just a ton bigger, but puffy. Keep painting on a little extra wash every 20 minutes or so to ensure that the dough doesn’t dry out. Poke these and they’ll feels like marshmallows when they’re ready.

And while it can be a little hard to tell when you’re getting close, you want to start heating your oil about 15 minutes ahead of time, so it can climb slowly and steadily up to 325-350 degrees Fahrenheit range. No more than that or the outside of the pastry will start to blacken before the interior cooks. Watch your temperatures carefully as you fry. And of course always have a fire extinguisher at-the-ready whenever you do something like this. Gently lay a few of them in. You can do 3-5 at a time depending on how large your vessel is.

You’ll turn them at least once to get them nice and dark brown. I used tongs to turn mine.

Fry for a good 4 minutes to make sure they completely done. Them lay them out on a rack over a towel-lined sheet pan.

Allow your xuixos to cool completely before you fill and serve them. Use a pastry bag or zip-type freezer bag fitted with a Bismarck tip. Going in through the dough edges was easiest for me:

To finish, roll or dab them in sugar. Don’t sprinkle sugar over them as only the smallest particles of sugar will stick, making them look dusty instead nice and sugary.

Here’s how they look on the inside. Note the very inside of the roll by the cream is just barely done.

That’s fine, but I’d have preferred a touch more. But that’s splitting hairs really, as these were dizzyingly delicious.

And yes, I say were because they’re all gone now. Why didn’t I make more? Because I’m a fool!

4 thoughts on “Xuixos”

  1. Those are absolutely stunning. I would love to have one with my coffee right now.
    I wish you all the best with your St. Louis trip.

    1. Thanks Chana! So would I…but they’re gone now.

      Sigh.

      And thanks for the well wishes. We’ll come through just fine.

      Cheers,

      – Joe

  2. Anytime I’ve made doughnuts or any other fried dough at home I’ve never been impressed with the results. I made a batch of croissants and fried a few of them. They turned out fine. They were the right color. They were done all the way through. They weren’t overproofed. So they didn’t soak up the grease like a sponge. They just tasted ho hum. The remaining ones I baked tasted better. I’m wondering if it’s the oil. I’ve used vegetable oil and canola oil and have gotten the same results. When I worked in a bakery making doughnuts, we used solid vegetable shortening that came in blocks. It was harder than the shortening that comes in a can. The doughnuts that came out of the fryer were wonderful, even without any glaze or topping on them.

    P.S. I’ve lived in Louisville all my life. Where was your doughnut shop?

    1. Hey David!

      Yes, doughnut fry is usually a lot harder than the stuff you buy in stores. It has to be plenty durable since it’s so rarely changed, just filtered and re-used. Some of the flavor you’re describing could be a result of that “add-to” system actually. Because the shortening definitely develops its own flavor over time. I wonder if that’s what made those shop doughnuts more interesting. Worth a thought!

      As for my doughnut operation, my kitchen was in what is now NULU. I sold them in a few locations, from a cart by Jefferson Fountain, and then at coffee shops all over town, Heine Brothers and such, Whole Foods also. It was fun while it lasted! 😉

      – Joe

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *