Classic Literature, Original Gangsta

My favorite thing by far on the internet these days is Thug Notes, a sort of street hoodie’s Masterpiece Theater. It’s funny, but unlike the purely comic Drunk History there’s an important point being made beneath the jokes and crass language. Specifically, that great literature is neither dull nor hard to understand. Further, it explores themes that anyone can find interesting. How can you not love a show where the host says things like: Now you just ain’t been goin’ hard in the paint unless you realize how this play captures the ambiguity of modernity. Dr. Sparky Sweets deserves a whole lot more attention.

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The Nun

“The nun” is a choux pastry classic that’s said to date back to 1725, the year Nicolas Stohrer opened his eponymous pastry shop on Rue Montorgueil near the famous Les Halles market in Paris. The shop is still there, and the crew is still making the nun (“la religieuse”) albeit in different colors and styles now. The traditional nun is choux with a coffee pastry cream filling, decorated with chocolate fondant and buttercream piping, no doubt meant to resemble the brown cotton-and-muslin habit and coif of a nun. Since I went to Catholic school and was taught by nuns, I’ll do it the traditional way so as not to get into any trouble.

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Pucker Up, Buttercup

Reader Gregory has been out picking persimmons and wants to know what causes the sour, pucker-y taste you get when you bite into one that isn’t quite ripe. Gregory, that’s a really great question. Tannins are responsible for that. They don’t have a taste or an aroma, rather they create a physical sensation known as “astringency”. It happens when phenolic compounds in the tannins combine with proteins in saliva. Little friction-inducing clumps of protein and other debris are created where ordinarily there is smooth lubrication. For the eater, it all adds up to a puckering feeling of dryness in the mouth, which can be downright off-putting.

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Water or Milk?

Both maybe? Choux formulas are pretty standard in the proportion of flour, eggs, liquid and fat. Where they sometimes differ is in the type of liquid they call for: some say milk, others say water, some say a combination. Does it make a difference?

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And now…chicken pox.

Nope, that’s not an obscure choux-based sweet, it’s Pastry household reality. The girls have a case each, though quite mild because of modern-day vaccinations. Still it’s going to put a bit of a kink in the works I think. Blogging will occur as best it can between applications of calamine lotion.

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Making Salammbos

These all-but-forgotten little globes of joy have the Belle Époque styling you’d expect from a pastry invented in the 1890’s. Crunchy caramel and nuts on the outside, fluffy choux and rich, silken pastry cream on the inside…I wonder how it is that they’ve been out of vogue for so long!

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It’s just as much fun as frisbees!

What choux batter reminds me of the most is a groovy bubble-blowing goo from the 70’s called Super Elastic Bubble Plastic (made by Wham-O!). It too starts as blob of putty-like material, but due to its extreme plasticity (and elasticity), it can be blown up into huge bubbles. I wish that stuff was still around. Sadly it was taken off the market in the early 80’s after the killjoys of the world pointed out that it gave off noxious fumes. Since when did those ever hurt anybody?

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First Up: Salammbos

Salammbos are obscure pastries, mostly forgotten about now: choux puffs filled with kirsch-scented pastry cream and glazed with caramel and pistachios. They were created in Brussels for the 1890 premiere of Ernest Reyer’s opera Salammbô, which was an adaptation of the novel of the same name by Gustav Flaubert. Here in the States we know Flaubert mostly for Madame Bovary. Salammbô was his next novel, a piece of historical fiction set in ancient Carthage. It was published in 1862.

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