Storing Ice Cream

Whether home-made or store bought, you’ll want to be sure to store your ice cream in the coldest environment you can find. That means the freezer, obviously, but more so at the back of the bottom-most shelf. Why is this important? Because as ice cream is warmed and chilled with each subsequent removal from the […]

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Who you callin’ fat?

It’s a common misperception that because gelato is made with milk it’s lower in fat than American and French-style ice creams. Wrongo. Though on average they’re a little lower in milk fat, gelatos can weigh in at up to 18% total fat, which is up there with the chubbiest of the ultra-rich (so-called “super premium”) […]

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What’s the difference between gelato and ice cream?

There’s less and less every day it seems. However there are two, maybe three base differences that more or less hold true. First, that gelato is made (or was once exclusively made) with milk. This is supposed to differentiate it from a French-style custard ice cream in that French-style is made with — no surprise […]

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Spot the “Stabilizer”

Can anyone tell me which ingredient in the below recipes qualifies as a “stabilizer”? It is of course the flour, which as the mix cooks will “gelatinize”, i.e. let loose its starch molecules, which will go on to inhibit ice crystal formation. What stops the ice cream from tasting “floury” you might wonder. For one […]

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Grandmother Ash’s Custard Ice Cream

This recipe was supplied by a friend and reader, and it’s one I can personally vouch for (having eaten it at a cookout not long ago). What I like about the written instructions is that they provide a window into how ice cream was made for much of the last century. Indeed, these proportions are […]

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Pump It Up

So if ice cream is a foam, just how much air is there in the stuff? That all depends. It can be as little as 15% or as much as 50% depending on the brand. Who first thought to incorporate air bubbles into ice cream? Why, the very same people who’ve been obsessed with foams […]

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He was framed I tell you — framed!

What the Chicago Fire did for the reputation of Irish livestock owners, the Great Fire of London did for bakers. Supposedly — supposedly — started in the bakeshop of one Thomas Farynor (on of all streets: Pudding Lane), The Great Fire destroyed some 80% of the city over three days, killing 16 people. On the […]

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