On Crispiness and Crunchiness – or – What? WHAT??

I’m personally fascinated by the subject of crispy and/or crunchy food. No question it’s an odd thing to take an interest in. However as many of you who’ve read my bio know, I work quite a bit with food growers, packagers and purveyors. And all of them — save for the beverage makers — are continually concerned with the property of crispness and/or crunchiness. It’s a highly valued property in food among human beings generally, and lots of time, effort and money has gone into studying it.

Why are human beings so terribly fond of the crispy/crunchy sensation? Every consumer group from health nuts all the way through to couch potatoes love it, creating huge markets for everything from bagged micro-greens to kettle chips. Indeed if one were to re-categorize foods in the supermarket based on their sensory characteristics alone, “crispy” would be the largest section by far, full of everything from asparagus to apples to bacon, chips, pretzels, tater tots, pickles, candy, cookies, microwave-ready edamame and frozen thin-crust pizzas.

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Baking Class Debrief

Reader Ruth wrote in to ask about the baking class I did over the holiday season at my daughter’s grade school. I meant to follow up on that but didn’t — so thanks, Ruth!

I may have mentioned that the organizer of these after school classes felt that baking was a subject better suited to older kids than to children my daughter’s age, and I had to agree. Fifth and sixth graders were much more responsible around heat sources and hot objects. I expected at least a couple of burns and/or cuts over the course of the six classes, but no one received a single injury. Which is not to say that they kids listened as well as I’d hoped they would. The science mostly passed right by them, and I frequently had to get, shall we say…insistent when it came to impressing the proper procedures on the group. I had only five, but lord, they were handful at times.

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Hello Japan!

Reader Aaron writes: Just wanted to drop you a note with a photo of pretzels baked using your recipe here on Sado Island in Japan. I am staying with a family who owns a bakery/restaurant on the island (Oasis Bakery in Ogi). There was a festival celebrating Fall foods and they created some special goods […]

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What’s with the baking soda?

I was waiting for someone to ask that question. Thanks, reader Emily! Dulce de leche recipes call for baking soda for one simple reason: to help the mixture brown. Those of you who’ve stuck with me through past posts about caramel know that it takes a fair amount of heat for sugars to start caramelizing […]

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Now here’s something cool…

A Dutch painting from 1681 that depicts a baker selling, among other things, pretzels. As I mentioned back in January when I was blogging on the subject, the shape of the pretzel is a hotly debated subject. There is seemingly no end to the cock-and-bull stories that purport to explain it. Here, however, is some […]

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It’s all about taste.

Reader Matthew chimes in with this key point: You’re missing one component in your discussion of why people use lye for pretzels. I learned this a few years ago when I compared several of the alternatives you mentioned against the lye-dipped pretzels. Only lye-dipped pretzels really taste like pretzels! It is a difficult flavor to […]

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For those of you who read German…

Jim C. of Chez Jim offers this article on the history of pretzels. For those of you who don’t (and I know I don’t), he offers this helpful summary: Hoefler says indeed that in old High German, the word meant bracelet and that it was eaten for Lent. He also suggests that it was linked […]

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Non-Starter?

A few football fan readers who don’t keep bread starters at home have asked what suggestions I have for them with the Super Bowl fast approaching. The easy answer is to go conventional and just find a likely straight dough pretzel recipe somewhere on the internet (King Arthur Flour has several good ones). However before […]

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The Middle Way

The below pretzel recipe calls for either dipping your pretzels in a lye bath or simply painting them with egg wash. However there is another method that’s very commonly used. It involves poaching your pretzels in boiling water to which a large volume of baking soda has been added. Soda, as you most of you […]

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Thanks!

…to every one who sent me suggestions on where to find lye these last few days. From candle and soap-making supply stores to Mexican groceries to Asian markets to Amish general stores, I had no idea there were so may potential sources of lye or very close equivalents. Due to a combination of weather, proximity, […]

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