We live in an age of culinary overkill. Our waffles come stacked to the moon with toppings. Our tacos are stuffed with burritos stuffed with nachos. As exhausted as we get by our own over-abundance, it’s easy to get lulled into the assumption that every food that came before our time was by definition a […]
READ ONWhen it comes to a combination of utility and cost, I can’t think of many kitchen gadgets to rival the blowtorch. And it feels darn good to buy one. I find that the manly satisfaction of a few minutes in the plumbing aisle looking over propane tanks and igniters offsets months of trips to the […]
READ ONReader Gerhard writes from Vienna to challenge me with this: Tell us how to do a proper crème brûlée the old fashioned style… without using a torch to melt the sugar on top (anyone can do that, but who can do a classic crème brûlée?) What Gerhard is referring to — I believe — is […]
READ ONThere’s a lot of tittering going on in elite pastry circles about crème brûlée these days. Just like molten chocolate cake, it’s an item most restaurants put on their menus solely out of obligation — something for country rubes and tourists who want to feel sophisticated dining in the big city. Right this very minute […]
READ ONCrème brûlée is one of those less-is-more desserts that really shines when it’s done well. Like its name implies, crème brûlée is a French dish, dating to at least the early 1690’s (though similar sweet custards were common in England and in Spain around the same time). It was first written down in French by […]
READ ONHere’s a classic. Some would argue it’s an overdone classic, but how can anyone ever get sick of crème brûlée? And yes, I do have to use all the accent marks. Get used to them.
READ ONAnother reader also named Suzanne, remarks: That persimmon pudding batter was such a lovely orange color! The after steaming it was nearly black! You mentioned that baking soda ruins the color of persimmon, yet your recipe calls for it. Is there any way to make persimmon pudding whill still keeping that nice orange tint? I’m […]
READ ONReader Suzanne writes in with this combination query/opinion: Then, what’s the deal with Yorkshire pudding? Is it “pudding” because you can put stuff into it after it’s baked? Or because you can use beef drippings for the fat? To me, it’s a sorry, imploded substitute for a popover. Now, now, Suzanne, I believe we put […]
READ ONOh, there’s nothing like a warm slice of persimmon pudding on a crisp fall evening. Looking at this photo, you can see why a lot of folks confuse some puddings with cake. Indeed it has a crumb that’s similar to, say, a dense Devil’s Food cake. An English-style pudding is more sophisticated than that, though, […]
READ ONMichael from Oxfordshire writes: Just a quick note about your puddings post – savoury suet puddings are still popular in England, with our national favourite being steak and kidney. And very delicious it is, too! I’ve never tried it, but I have no doubt whatsoever. Thanks Michael!
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