What’s the history of the lemon bar?

It has surprisingly little when you consider that citrus curds have been popular for about 125 years and shortbread for many (many) more than that. You’d have thought that somebody, especially somebody living somewhere in Britain, would have put those two things together in pie form. It seems, however, that this particular somebody never did. […]

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Lemon Bars: They Ain’t What They Used to Be

Lemon bars have been much abused the last couple of decades. Once quite rare, they’re now a staple of coffee shops and fast-casual chains like Panera Bread and Corner Bakery. Though I wonder: are those thick yellow slabs next to the pile of fist-sized brownies really lemon bars? An argument could be made that they […]

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Lemon Bars Recipe

A great lemon bar should have a no-nonsense tart-sweet curd filling above and a flaky-yet-firm short bread crust below. The two together create an experience that approaches religious. The secret to lemon bars isn’t in the ingredients per se (a top-notch lemon curd filling is defined more by what you leave out of it than […]

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Prairie Meets the Post-War

Reader Lee comments on the A Word of Warning post below: I wonder if you aren’t conflating two separate trends — one, the prairie ethic of making do with what is at hand, the other, the post-War industrialized-processed food glut that, in many ways, was the opposite of the first. I admire the prairie baker […]

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What is butterscotch and why is it called “butterscotch”?

GREAT questions, reader Steve! Butterscotch is a candy that’s made by cooking sugar to the “hard crack” stage of 300 degrees Fahrenheit. The key point of difference between butterscotch and regular candy is that at least half of the sugar employed is brown sugar. Butterscotch has no actual “scotch” in it of course, instead its […]

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Is there such a thing as “unsweetened condensed milk”?

That from reader Chana. In fact there is, it’s simply called “evaporated milk” and it can usually be found in the same section of the grocery store. Evaporated milk was a later development than (sweetened) condensed milk for the simple reason that the manufacturing is more difficult. Without the bacteria-killing sugar in the mix, there […]

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