Gâteau St. Honoré Recipe

Gâteau St. Honoré can be made in lots of different ways. The foundation is usually made of puff pastry, short crust, pâte à choux or a combination thereof. Huh? A combination? Yup. The most typical combo is a base of puff pastry with a layer of choux on the top, which is what I’m going to do. I happen to have a large ball of puff pastry scraps in the freezer and they’ll be perfect for the job (since I want the richness but not necessarily all the height). A normal sheet of puff pastry will work great, too. You’ll just need to prick it (“dock” it) with a fork.

READ ON

This Week: Gâteau St. Honoré

Here’s a classic that strikes fear in to the hearts of many, but is actually a not-too-difficult thing. You’ve probably seen it before in a pastry case. It looks like a cream-filled tart with caramel-covered cream puffs all around the edge. As with a lot of classic preparations, there are many, many variations on the […]

READ ON

Um…mock asparagus?

Several of you wrote in to ask about that detail of the George Washington Carver Post below. I’ll admit I added that in just because it sounded weird. Carver created all sorts of imitation meats out of peanut protein, his own peanut-based version of seitan. I presume he make the imitation asparagus with the same […]

READ ON

What about George Washington Carver?

Reader Wendi asks, given that peanut butter was central to last week’s project, where’s my tip of the hat to George Washington Carver?

Now Wendy, don’t get me wrong, I love George Washington Carver. He’s one of my all-time favorite food scientists, synonymous with peanuts and for many, peanut butter. But the truth is that he didn’t invent peanut butter. That was the brainchild of the Incas. They were the first people to cultivate peanuts, and were mashing them into butters and molés thousands of years before Carver ever came on the scene.

READ ON

On Chocolate Conching

Reader Katie asks:

Do you know anything about conching chocolate? I’d love to hear more of the science behind that process.

I know w a little bit, Katie, but not terribly much. For while conching is a very well-known step in chocolate processing, it’s something chocolate manufacturers don’t say much about. That’s partly because some believe that conching is the step in which the magic happens. Others, interestingly, think the supposed “mystery” of conching is just a bunch of baloney. I’ll leave that to you to decide.

READ ON

Stupid Chocolate Tricks I: “Balloon” Cups

Here are a few things that don’t go together: impossibly delicate chocolate molds, outdoor photography and July. Fortunately I made a lot of cups and garnishes. Edible “balloon” cups are nothing new, but still a great way to wow guests at a dinner party. You can make them ahead and store them in the fridge until you’re ready to fill and present them.

READ ON

Is all tempered chocolate shiny?

Nope, sorry reader Jean. It’s glossier than chocolate that’s simply been melted and allowed to firm, but really shiny chocolate is a consequence of two things: good tempering and contact with a smooth surface. If you think about a chocolate bar, the shiny side is the top, the part that’s been in contact with the mold. The bottom is dull side, the part that was exposed to air as the bar cooled.

READ ON

How much chocolate is in milk chocolate?

Interesting question, reader Leeza. It depends on the manufacturer. A bar of Hershey’s milk chocolate (which I’ll confess is still my favorite milk chocolate to simply eat) is about 11% cocoa solids (their dark chocolate is 15% if you were wondering). More expensive milk chocolates can contain up to 38% cocoa solids.

READ ON