What exactly IS a croquembouche?
Glad you asked! A modern croquembouche is a cone-shaped tower of cream puffs. Some people like to say “profiteroles”, but that word makes me think of chocolate sauce. Also the brilliantly acted but gruesome 1989 cult film The Cook, The Thief, His Wife & Her Lover. Where are my %@#^$# profiteroles!!! I shiver just thinking about it.
Croquembouche means “crunch in the mouth”, an apt description for what happens when you bite into a piece, as the “glue” that holds the tower together is candy cooked nearly to the caramel stage. Croquembouche is traditionally served as a centerpiece for a wedding or baptism party, and is often decorated with almonds. Glossy caramel threads are another go-to croquembouche decoration. Sometimes a croquembouche stands on a base of nougatine, but I think I’ll skip that step. Or so I’m thinking at the moment. Any suggestions on they projects are, as usual, welcome.
I always thought that profiterole meant that the puff was stuffed with ice cream instead of custard.
It can vary I think, Rainey. But I’ll check my pastry manuals!
– Joe
No doubt my error. I just formed some general impression from a few recipes.
More than likely mine, Rainey! But I haven’t found a reference yet!
– Joe
I’ve seen various recipes that have different fillings for the ‘profiteroles’ – can you supply some options for that? (The most common I’ve seen is the ‘Boston Cream’ type, though my wife would prefer a plain fluffy vanilla, and I’d like the option to experiment with other Joe-Pastry-Approved flavors)
Hehe…sure thing, Roger!
– Joe
I have a recipe where you fill the choux buns with a limoncello custard/creme patissiere. What are you planning on filling them with?
Hey Alison!
Good question. I like the limoncello idea!
Cheers,
– Joe
Is there such a thing as a savory Croquembouche? I’ve always wondered how I could make a savory whipped cream filling that wasn’t sweet to stuff puffs or gougeres. I’ve successfully whipped cream with mascarpone cheese to stabilize it then whipped horseradish into it to serve with beef roast. I’d like another flavor to use in puffs as an appetizer. Carmelized onions or mushrooms? What else?
In fact there are savory croquembouches. Or were. Apparently some of the very earliest were savory. But glued together with caramel? Sounds a bit odd. I need to do more research!
Cheers,
– Joe
Okay, I’ll admit it. Croquembouche makes me recall this Martha Stewart Christmas Special where she made it alongside Julia Child. I nearly died laughing. I wonder if it is on the internet….no. Dah!
It was comic to see Martha’s perfect version next to Julia’s, and to hear Julia’s commentary on it. I recall thinking, “wait, is Martha Stewart trying to show up Julia Child?” I was so young back then and I still remember it. Ah…
I’m going to look for that! I love watching Julia Child on TV. Martha not so much!
– Joe
Here’s the only snippet of it I could find:
http://on.aol.com/video/martha-and-julia-make-christmas-behind-the-scenes-517189617
Love that. Wow, they were making big ones. Martha’s looked to be solid puffs. That would be a very large event indeed!
Thanks Rainey!
– Joe
Another question – I figure you’ll probably be going with your standard choux (filled appropriately) – how sweet can you go with that, i.e. would adding extra sugar to the choux be a detriment? I realize you run the risk of over-sweet (sweeter dough, caramel, sweet filling), but I’m thinking of something doughnut-level dough. Too much?
(For those unaware, I’ve been hounding Joe to do this project for at least 6 months, and I’m ecstatic that he’s agreed to take it on!)
Hey Roger!
Interesting idea. Choux can’t handle much sugar, but that’s alright since the caramel and pastry cream will more than make up for any lapses. And I’m pleased to finally get around to it!
– Joe
I just noticed a picture of a croquembouche (with craquelin also) from Bon Appetit’s test kitchen on their instagram feed here: http://instagram.com/allielewisclapp
Looks like the competition is stacking up (literally)!
http://instagram.com/p/ju2sfUFmCM/ if you can’t see the picture at the other link.
Thanks for that, Katharine! Just as I suspected, the very rigid craquelin profiteroles are hard to stack and leave lots of space between one another. I think I’m leaning away from this technique for croquembouche. Hmmm….
– Joe