Back to Prince Esterházy
It’s not the cake and cream portion of this classic pastry that I fear, it’s that zebra-striped fondant top. Oh sure I’ve done it before on the tops of Napoleons and such, but a round one? That gives me the jits I don’t mind telling you. Otherwise the only thing that has me puzzled is the structure of the thing. An Esterházy torte is not unlike a Dobos torte in that it’s made up of many, many individual layers of “cake” and buttercream. That “cake” is most often a soft almond or hazelnut sponge, at least based on the recipes I’ve seen so far. However I’m greatly intrigued by references to “classic” versions that are supposedly made of crispy nut flour-and-meringue layers. Which way to go…which way to go…I think I know already but am interested in what you might have to say on the subject.
According to Kaffeehaus by Rick Rodgers it should always be 6 layers, no more, no less, of a almond or hazelnut meringue. His recipe opts for a combination of the two. He deftly skirts the issue of feathered glaze by making Esterházyschnitten, which means slices. That’s right..he cheats and makes them in a sheet pan.
Good cookbook by the way…this is one of the recipes that I have yet to muster the courage to try. But Joe Pastry knows no fear! Go on Joe…..this one is for the empire!!!
I have made Rick Rogers’ Eszterházyschnitten many times, since it always comes out well and his use of nut meringue makes them gluten-free (sometimes we have GF guests to look after). His recipes are usually pretty reliable, I find, but I’m looking forward to seeing how Joe’s version turns out.
Hey James!
Other readers have referenced that recipe and I think it’s a good one. Of course I’ll want to do mine round, but I like his idea using two different kinds of meringue!
Cheers,
– Joe
I cheated also, went with rectangular sheets of hazelnut meringue. I have never done this with soft cake, I am sure it would be good but people seem to be so impressed with the nut meringue because it is unusual. I go with orange instead of apricot jam because I like the way orange goes with hazelnut.
That’s a very nice idea which I may well steal, Frankly!
Thanks much for the comment.
– Joe
Hey Johan!
I saw that recipe and the logic seems sound to me. But I’m with you: why cop out and make slices? It seems like that’s the wave these days. Much to my dismay I discovered that my Kindle edition of Austrian Desserts and Pastries seems to have been updated, replacing the round pastry in the print version with an easier schnitten version. What’s this world coming to?
No matter, I shall stick to the original.
Cheers,
– Joe
The first time I ever had anything other than cake or pie (I was 19 at the time), was at a pot luck dinner party. The host had made a torte that consisted of ground nuts and dates in a meringue base. It had something in between and on top, but it wasn’t as memorable as the layers of that wonderfully sweet, crisp “cake”. I vote for the meringue layers!
You’re on, Susan!
– Joe
Joe, my reference from 1975 by my Swiss PC tutor is that it is made with what he called “biscuits” made out of meringue and almond flour. He used to make them about a foot in diameter – six “biscuits” in total. However, for the patern he just piped chocolate ganache in straight lines on the glaze, starting with a cross through the centre and then parallel lines each side, up and across, spaced about every 1.5 inches. He then used a toothpick and pulled diagonally across the lines through each intersection to form his “web”. They were FG! (Frightfully Good). He was very good but freely admitted he was not so hot in piping circles.
And Joe, forgot to add that the “buttercream” is not the US style. It is more a highly enriched pastry cream, according to my recipe, made with egg yolks, sugar, flour and milk and then the butter whipped in once the pastry cream is cool.
It think that’s true, John, based on what I’ve seen. However since it’s been at least a week since I’ve had an excuse to make a buttercream, I’ll probably go that direction. A dickies is too lovely a thing to pass up!
Cheers,
– Joe
Very interesting, John! I thing the meringue is going to win the day here. And I’ll think about that technique for the top!
Cheers,
– Joe
Meringue layers, for sure. So much more tasty!
Meringue layers with buttercream reminds me of daquoise. What – if any – difference is there?
Sara, it’s a deal. And indeed this is a dacquoise, like marjolaine, another one of my favorite pastries!
Cheers,
– Joe
I just looked up the marjolaine recipe. It looks yummy! Thanks for mentioning it.
It’s a mind-blower for people who’ve never tried something like this. I have a friend who’ll eat half of one at a sitting if I don’t stop him.
– Joe
Oh, the meringue sounds wonderful. But then I’m not a fan of the airy texture of spongecake.
Hey Rainey!
Yes, I think there are enough sponges in the world myself. Onward to meringue!
– Joe
I vote for the meringue layers as well. I think Americans need more exposure to this kind of torte. Sponge cake, chiffon cake, and other soft cakes predominate the commercial baking scene.
I usually pipe a spiral on round cakes and drag from the center out at 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 o’clock, and drag into the center in between.
No one really notices that I didn’t pipe distinct circles.
If you want stripes instead, let the chocolate drip down the sides for a more casual look. If you say that is what you intended, who is going to argue with Joe Pastry? No one with cake in their mouth, that’s for sure.
Ha! Great stuff, Ed!
I was thinking about a spiral myself, actually, since it would give the fondant less time to set up. From what I’ve seen it looks like most people use a white fondant and melted dark chocolate — instead of a chocolate fondant — for the top decoration. Is that what you use?
Nice to have someone with some Esterházy experience on the team!
– Joe
I use ganache, it takes a bit longer to set up. It makes it a bit easier, Poured fondant is a pain in the arse, but it looks so damn nice.
Thanks Ed!
Good advice.
– Joe
I had not considered the ‘gluten free’ aspect of the Esterházy Torte. A good PR angle to take when confronted with diet crazed family. Brilliant!
Me neither, Johan. Marketing is everything!
Cheers,
– Joe
Why not do both, and have Mrs. P’s students tell us which is better?
The problem with feeding graduate students, Roger, is that they just show up the next night on your back porch begging for more. You end up having to shoo them away with a broom…or letting the dog out to chase them from the yard. Suffice to say it’s something I’d rather not get into. I think meringue is the way to go!
Cheers,
– Joe