When the Ice Cream Store Invades the Bakery

Or is that the other way ’round? Whatever it is, it’s the latest thing in the frozen dessert industry: “whole dessert” ice cream. It’s been coming for a while now, but you know whole dessert ice cream has really arrived when Baskin Robbins announces its seasonal line-up and fully two-thirds of the new flavors fall into the whole dessert category. What are whole dessert ice creams? Simply all the components of a pastry or cake — fillings, toppings, crust and crumb — mixed into an ice cream base. They’ve mostly been the domain of boutique ice cream makers and restaurants the last few years, but recent advances in inclusion and variegate-making technology (the bits and the goo) has made them cost-effective for larger manufacturers to produce. If you’re curious, just hang on. They’re about to be everywhere.